I pulled into Galena’s Recreation Park half expecting to ride solo in this year’s “Circle the Vineyards”. The weather was hardly promising, but the 100 kilometer tour of wineries around Galena, Illinois would commence as scheduled.
This year, we invited riders of vintage steel bicycles to replicate the epic L’Eroica tour in Tuscany. We even made up a trophy—a steel lug welded to a spoke stuck in a walnut base. My 30-year-old Trek would be the only steel bike on this year’s “Circle”, so the trophy presentation will wait for another autumn.
Happily, as the 10 AM departure time drew near, Andrew and Bill arrived with their carbon fiber Treks, and after a quick photo shoot, we were away through town en route to our first winery twenty miles to the south.
To get there, we evaded the traffic along Blackjack for roads less travelled through Irish and Batey Hollows. These are hallowed roads in pastoral valleys where wild turkeys trot around the cattle.
We were obliged to tackle a very sharp 18% ascent on Irish Hollow. Without proper gearing we would have been off the bikes quicker than you can say Sram. If you plan to ride out here in this drift less corner of Illinois, remember to bring a small chain ring and a big rear gear.
Our reward at the top of the climb was a grand ridge-top roll along Rocky Hill Road. Our pace was civil, and we were treated to splendid Mississippi overlooks evoking Albert Bierstadt and Thomas Moran.
After a 14% grade above bucolic Hanover, we arrived at Rocky Waters Winery. Of our three wineries, this is surely the most picturesque. From the tasting room, you can look through a spreading oak across the Mississippi Valley to a wildlife refuge on the Iowa side.
In 1997, the Spahn Family planted vines in the cow pasture and began growing grapes. After four or five years, they were selling their produce to wineries like Galena Cellars and Wollersheim. Their winery opened a year before we rode our first “Circle”, which was three years ago.
Bill bought me a glass of their semi-dry Lakeside White and himself a slightly sweeter Log Cabin White. Andrew held back for Massbach Ridge but helped himself to a handful of Mrs. Sipps spiced almonds.
Rocky Waters reminds me of Elk Cove Winery in Oregon with its old oak tree and big view. This winery certainly inspired our “Circle” ride.
Our next leg to Massbach Ridge is eleven miles. We detoured north off Hanover Road on Pleasant Hill and took Reusch Road over to Derinda. L’Eroica covets their famed white limestone gravel roads (strade bianche) in Tuscany. Lovers of old bicycles come from around the globe to join Italians in their celebration of these historic roads and heroic racing in days past.
Reusch Road begins with a stretch of gold limestone road (oro strada). After a mile, it turns to chip-seal and rolls through a high meadow before descending into a capacious valley, which cradles a pleasing farm owned by the Sullivan family.
We arrived at Massbach Ridge Winery to find their grape stomping party in progress. Andrew was ready to treat Bill and me to a taste. Megan Block was delighted to take his nine bucks and pour us each a glass of vino bianco. Massbach Ridge’s crisp semi-dry Seyval really takes the edge off a dusty bike ride.
While we sipped, a friendly visitor from Ohio took our picture. She and her husband were part of a vintage Triumph sports car rally. The warm hospitality of this winery makes it a great destination. This is certainly a reflection of its owner, Peggy Harmston.
Alas, we passed on the grape stomp but grabbed a bunch each of concord and marechal foch. It was time to fill water bottles and push on to Galena Cellars twenty four miles to the north.
Our third leg of the “Circle” took us through Woodbine into the Apple River valley to a short section on oro strada on Grebner Road. From there, we ascended Hoffman Road to Elizabeth Scales Mound Road and were joined by lovers of chrome, leather and V-Twin power.
This country is made for weekenders on Harleys. Their “Circle” is much larger than ours, but double digit climbs and oro strade are off their map and happily so.
After a couple miles, we turned left and screamed down Rawlins Road, through Guilford back up Ford Road. After yet another 12% ascent, we crossed busy Stagecoach Trail and shot down the hill to Galena Cellars. There we saw enough parked cars to fill the lot at the Brookfield Zoo.
With a twinge of agoraphobia and a taste for that other beverage, I beckoned the lads ahead to the General Store at Council Hill Station. At long last, we could sit down, stretch out and trade viniculture for hops in a bottle.
By unanimous vote, we are renaming our event “Circle the Vineyards, & Have a Beer!” Council Hill Station is indeed a comfortable hang out. You are instantly treated like a regular once you discover the reach-in beer cooler. Then you can kick back and be entertained by local musicians, including the owner, Jamie, who used to run a tavern up in New Diggings.
Be warned of passing freight trains though. We were told Council Hill Station sits alongside the longest continuous railroad grade in the US, and trains may need to be divided to get up it. So where's the respect for pedal pushing drift less hill climbers? I can tell you this; we certainly did not fancy climbing back up to Stagecoach and prayed we wouldn’t have to shift our bicycles between moving freight cars.
Thankfully, the ethanol tankers passed by in short order, and we were up the hill on our final leg of the “Circle”. After a dip through the Galena River valley, the grand finale of our "Circle" is a long blessed descent on North Council Hills Road.
This year, we were a tiny band of brothers. But the weather and train parted before us, and we made new acquaintances with vintage sports cars, purple feet, and a harmonica.
FYI you cycling statisticians: my Garmin showed: 67 ¼ miles; averaging 13 MPH; and 5,300 feet of climbing.
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